Monthly Archives: May 2014

Now that it is altered and cut out, let’s put this garment together.

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This is what we are going to put together.

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Pin front to back pant leg pieces at the inseam being sure to have right sides together.  Sew both inside leg seams together being sure that notches line up.

Once you are finished with the inside leg seams open the pieces and press the seam.

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Now is when the body/crotch seam is going to be sewn.  Take both legs and put right sides of them together matching the body/crotch edges.  Be sure to match the single notches of the front and the double notches of the back.

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Here it is pinned together and ready to be sewn.

Be sure to double stitch/reinforce the seam through the curved portion of the crotch.  There should be instructions for this in the instructions of your pattern.  The curved portion must be clipped.

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Now open the seam up taking the front and back together at the sides.  At this point the garment is wrong sides together.  Essentially, the pants/trousers must be ‘turned inside out’.

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This is how I turn them.

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The top of the pants/trousers are right in front of me and I flip one part of the top back.  Then reach into the legs and turn the inside out.

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Then the pants/trousers are right sides together again as the next picture will show.

trouser blog post 037Now to pin the outside seams of both of the legs together and sew the straight seam.

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Don’t forget to match the notches as shown in this photo.

After the stitching the main part of the pants/trousers are complete.  Then there is the elastic casing and the hem.

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Before starting the elastic casing …………….

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Press those seams  open.  I can not stress how important I this is to me.  There may be seamstresses out there that do not agree with me and they have their own methods.  For me a nicely pressed seam for casings and hems gives such a crisp appearance.  Onwards!

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Most sewing patterns will give the instruction to turn under 1/4 (a quarter) of an inch for hems and casings.  I prefer to turn under 1/2 (half) of an inch.  To me it makes the casing or hem seam so much stronger.  Since I have already butchered and destroyed the original pattern in making my alterations, I turn under 1/2 inch.  Now if you are using the pattern in the original form and then turn under the 1/4 inch.

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For these pants/trousers I am turning under 2 inches.  I like to use a 1 inch elastic and I like plenty of room for that elastic.  Let me show you what else I have done.

I almost forgot.  Press, press, press.

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When sewing in casing or hems I like to use a quarter-inch quilting foot.  Then I can sew very close to the edge and be consistent with the seam placement.  You can use whatever foot you are comfortable with.  Be sure to leave an opening to allow you to run your elastic.

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On these pants/trousers I am stitching a 1/2 inch from the top to create a ‘paper bag’ type of elastic casing.  Doing this also helps to secure the seams in the casing to make it easier to thread the elastic through.

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To thread my elastic through I prefer to use the safety-pin.  I have tried the bodkin and such but this is what works best for me.  Follow the instructions on the pattern for figuring out how much elastic to use.

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Once the elastic is through then secure with a seam.  I prefer to secure the elastic in two places.

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Finally, close the casing.

The last thing is to hem the pants/trousers.  Because I have already made this pattern before I already know how much hem to put in.  On a pattern the hemming allowance is already included in the instructions.  Don’t forget to pres.

Finally,

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‘Done!

This pair of pant/trousers is somewhat boring though, don’t you think?  I certainly can’t keep them white because I will get them marked.  I am not able to keep a white garment white.  I am feeling the need for color.  My final blog posting in this ‘series’ will be dyeing the garment.

Now what color should I use?

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Alteration of sewing pattern.

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Upon a request from one of the people who follow my blog I am going to share with you how I went about making these trousers/pants from the outfit that I made to wear to a wedding.

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This is the pattern that I used.

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The fabric that I used it a cotton/linen blend that is white to start with.  After I have finished the garment, I will dye it.  In this blog post I am going to talk about the fit that I need to achieve with this garment and how I altered the pattern.

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This is how my altered pants pattern looks post addition of tissue paper.  I will go into a short bit of detail.

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In this photo I am showing how I lengthened the body/crotch of the pattern by 2 inches.  One of the most important parts of lengthening or shortening a printed pattern is to keep the ‘grain line’ arrow lined up.  I have found that out by experience.

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In this photo I had to alter the bottom of the curve of the crotch.  I really had no clue as to how to do this properly.  I just ‘winged’ it based on experience and a heartfelt prayer.

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In this photo I am lengthening the pant legs by 2 inches.  I lengthened the body/crotch by 2 inches.  That is 4 inches total.  I am making these pants to end above the ankle.  I don’t have enough tissue paper to make these pants end at the top of the foot.

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I have fitted this pattern to myself as best that I could in front of the mirror.  I decided to add a bit to the outside of the pants because I do need to have a loose fit.  I added approx. 1 inch to the outside of the front and back pant lets.  I used a carpenter’s square to do this.

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Here is the front pattern piece all altered and pinned to the fabric, ready to cut out.

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In this photo I am trying to point out that I transferred to notches to the extended part on the outside of the pants.  When I am cutting out a pattern piece and notches are indicated I simply cut a small slit in the center of the notch.  I started doing this when I made a garment from a Burda pattern.  That company uses slits and I think that it is easier than the wedges/triangles.

The only other thing that I have to do is cut out the back pattern piece.  I opted not to put pockets on these pants because I did not want to add bulk.

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I have already made this pair of pants/trousers that is in my precious posting.  In this photo my husband is taking the photos since I am wearing the pants.  Please be kind about the these photos.  He tries the best that he can.

In my next blog post I will be showing the construction of the different parts of the pattern pieces to make simple elastic wasted pants/trousers.  I am hopeful that I will be publishing that post tomorrow.

‘Imperfectly Perfect’, that is what I call my finshed outfit.

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This selfie photo is one shot of my finished outfit.  I sewed the garments, dyed the garments and embellished the garments.  I am more that pleased with the result.  I did not turn out the way that I envisioned it … only better.  I would like to review what I did.  I took plain white fabric and made the top.  I found a pattern that I was pleased with for the pants/trousers but I had to alter the pattern.  Oh my did I alter the pants pattern.  I will be going into more detail about the pants pattern in my next blog post.  Then I tea dyed the top and dyed the pants … twice.  I was attempting to get a solid color for the pants but they are subtly ‘mottled’ in color.  As it turns out I am more that pleased with that.  That is what the fabric wanted to do so I didn’t argue with it.  I did dye them twice because they just needed more color.  When I compared the top with the pants the colors were not agreeing with each other so I had to come up with an action to achieve a pleasing end.  I thought about it for a few days and then I thought that I should over-dye the top with the same color as the pants.  The colors of the two are not exactly the same but they are so complimentary.  Then it was time to add the crocheted lace and the doilies.  Let’s look at some more pictures.

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When I was adding the lace to the sides of the top I started out to make it the same height on both the front and the back panels.  Then I thought to myself “Why?”.  I am not symmetrical so why should I make the embellishments symmetrical?

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I think that you can see that I did the same on the other side at the side split of the top.  The crocheted doilies are not symmetrical either.  All of them are not even the same color.  Some are tea dyed and some are not.  The doilies on the legs are tea dyed and they are not at the same height.

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Here are some more shots of the outfit.

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I wanted to provide better pictures but events did not work in that direction and I did not want to wait any longer to provide pictures of my finished product  I thank everyone for their interest and support.

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