This is what we are going to put together.
Pin front to back pant leg pieces at the inseam being sure to have right sides together. Sew both inside leg seams together being sure that notches line up.
Once you are finished with the inside leg seams open the pieces and press the seam.
Now is when the body/crotch seam is going to be sewn. Take both legs and put right sides of them together matching the body/crotch edges. Be sure to match the single notches of the front and the double notches of the back.
Here it is pinned together and ready to be sewn.
Be sure to double stitch/reinforce the seam through the curved portion of the crotch. There should be instructions for this in the instructions of your pattern. The curved portion must be clipped.
Now open the seam up taking the front and back together at the sides. At this point the garment is wrong sides together. Essentially, the pants/trousers must be ‘turned inside out’.
This is how I turn them.
The top of the pants/trousers are right in front of me and I flip one part of the top back. Then reach into the legs and turn the inside out.
Then the pants/trousers are right sides together again as the next picture will show.
Don’t forget to match the notches as shown in this photo.
After the stitching the main part of the pants/trousers are complete. Then there is the elastic casing and the hem.
Before starting the elastic casing …………….
Press those seams open. I can not stress how important I this is to me. There may be seamstresses out there that do not agree with me and they have their own methods. For me a nicely pressed seam for casings and hems gives such a crisp appearance. Onwards!
Most sewing patterns will give the instruction to turn under 1/4 (a quarter) of an inch for hems and casings. I prefer to turn under 1/2 (half) of an inch. To me it makes the casing or hem seam so much stronger. Since I have already butchered and destroyed the original pattern in making my alterations, I turn under 1/2 inch. Now if you are using the pattern in the original form and then turn under the 1/4 inch.
For these pants/trousers I am turning under 2 inches. I like to use a 1 inch elastic and I like plenty of room for that elastic. Let me show you what else I have done.
I almost forgot. Press, press, press.
When sewing in casing or hems I like to use a quarter-inch quilting foot. Then I can sew very close to the edge and be consistent with the seam placement. You can use whatever foot you are comfortable with. Be sure to leave an opening to allow you to run your elastic.
On these pants/trousers I am stitching a 1/2 inch from the top to create a ‘paper bag’ type of elastic casing. Doing this also helps to secure the seams in the casing to make it easier to thread the elastic through.
To thread my elastic through I prefer to use the safety-pin. I have tried the bodkin and such but this is what works best for me. Follow the instructions on the pattern for figuring out how much elastic to use.
Once the elastic is through then secure with a seam. I prefer to secure the elastic in two places.
Finally, close the casing.
The last thing is to hem the pants/trousers. Because I have already made this pattern before I already know how much hem to put in. On a pattern the hemming allowance is already included in the instructions. Don’t forget to pres.
This pair of pant/trousers is somewhat boring though, don’t you think? I certainly can’t keep them white because I will get them marked. I am not able to keep a white garment white. I am feeling the need for color. My final blog posting in this ‘series’ will be dyeing the garment.
Now what color should I use?