Tag Archives: fashion sewing

Now that it is altered and cut out, let’s put this garment together.

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This is what we are going to put together.

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Pin front to back pant leg pieces at the inseam being sure to have right sides together.  Sew both inside leg seams together being sure that notches line up.

Once you are finished with the inside leg seams open the pieces and press the seam.

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Now is when the body/crotch seam is going to be sewn.  Take both legs and put right sides of them together matching the body/crotch edges.  Be sure to match the single notches of the front and the double notches of the back.

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Here it is pinned together and ready to be sewn.

Be sure to double stitch/reinforce the seam through the curved portion of the crotch.  There should be instructions for this in the instructions of your pattern.  The curved portion must be clipped.

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Now open the seam up taking the front and back together at the sides.  At this point the garment is wrong sides together.  Essentially, the pants/trousers must be ‘turned inside out’.

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This is how I turn them.

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The top of the pants/trousers are right in front of me and I flip one part of the top back.  Then reach into the legs and turn the inside out.

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Then the pants/trousers are right sides together again as the next picture will show.

trouser blog post 037Now to pin the outside seams of both of the legs together and sew the straight seam.

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Don’t forget to match the notches as shown in this photo.

After the stitching the main part of the pants/trousers are complete.  Then there is the elastic casing and the hem.

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Before starting the elastic casing …………….

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Press those seams  open.  I can not stress how important I this is to me.  There may be seamstresses out there that do not agree with me and they have their own methods.  For me a nicely pressed seam for casings and hems gives such a crisp appearance.  Onwards!

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Most sewing patterns will give the instruction to turn under 1/4 (a quarter) of an inch for hems and casings.  I prefer to turn under 1/2 (half) of an inch.  To me it makes the casing or hem seam so much stronger.  Since I have already butchered and destroyed the original pattern in making my alterations, I turn under 1/2 inch.  Now if you are using the pattern in the original form and then turn under the 1/4 inch.

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For these pants/trousers I am turning under 2 inches.  I like to use a 1 inch elastic and I like plenty of room for that elastic.  Let me show you what else I have done.

I almost forgot.  Press, press, press.

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When sewing in casing or hems I like to use a quarter-inch quilting foot.  Then I can sew very close to the edge and be consistent with the seam placement.  You can use whatever foot you are comfortable with.  Be sure to leave an opening to allow you to run your elastic.

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On these pants/trousers I am stitching a 1/2 inch from the top to create a ‘paper bag’ type of elastic casing.  Doing this also helps to secure the seams in the casing to make it easier to thread the elastic through.

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To thread my elastic through I prefer to use the safety-pin.  I have tried the bodkin and such but this is what works best for me.  Follow the instructions on the pattern for figuring out how much elastic to use.

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Once the elastic is through then secure with a seam.  I prefer to secure the elastic in two places.

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Finally, close the casing.

The last thing is to hem the pants/trousers.  Because I have already made this pattern before I already know how much hem to put in.  On a pattern the hemming allowance is already included in the instructions.  Don’t forget to pres.

Finally,

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‘Done!

This pair of pant/trousers is somewhat boring though, don’t you think?  I certainly can’t keep them white because I will get them marked.  I am not able to keep a white garment white.  I am feeling the need for color.  My final blog posting in this ‘series’ will be dyeing the garment.

Now what color should I use?

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‘Imperfectly Perfect’, that is what I call my finshed outfit.

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This selfie photo is one shot of my finished outfit.  I sewed the garments, dyed the garments and embellished the garments.  I am more that pleased with the result.  I did not turn out the way that I envisioned it … only better.  I would like to review what I did.  I took plain white fabric and made the top.  I found a pattern that I was pleased with for the pants/trousers but I had to alter the pattern.  Oh my did I alter the pants pattern.  I will be going into more detail about the pants pattern in my next blog post.  Then I tea dyed the top and dyed the pants … twice.  I was attempting to get a solid color for the pants but they are subtly ‘mottled’ in color.  As it turns out I am more that pleased with that.  That is what the fabric wanted to do so I didn’t argue with it.  I did dye them twice because they just needed more color.  When I compared the top with the pants the colors were not agreeing with each other so I had to come up with an action to achieve a pleasing end.  I thought about it for a few days and then I thought that I should over-dye the top with the same color as the pants.  The colors of the two are not exactly the same but they are so complimentary.  Then it was time to add the crocheted lace and the doilies.  Let’s look at some more pictures.

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When I was adding the lace to the sides of the top I started out to make it the same height on both the front and the back panels.  Then I thought to myself “Why?”.  I am not symmetrical so why should I make the embellishments symmetrical?

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I think that you can see that I did the same on the other side at the side split of the top.  The crocheted doilies are not symmetrical either.  All of them are not even the same color.  Some are tea dyed and some are not.  The doilies on the legs are tea dyed and they are not at the same height.

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Here are some more shots of the outfit.

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I wanted to provide better pictures but events did not work in that direction and I did not want to wait any longer to provide pictures of my finished product  I thank everyone for their interest and support.

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Progress report on my outfit to wear to the wedding.

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I just thought that I would give you a quick update on the outfit that I am making to wear to my nephew’s wedding.  In this picture I have finished making the top and I have finished tea dyeing it.  I have not even pressed it yet.  I am by no means finished with it.  I will start laying out the embellishments that I would like to put on the top to see where I want everything to be placed.

The pants/trousers are still a work in progress.  I am very pleased with the preliminary fit of the pants and I am going to “refine” the fit some more.  After all of the alterations that I made to the pattern for the pants, I can not express the feeling of satisfaction that I have.

I think that I may seem like I am making slow progress on this outfit but I have been busy with getting everything settled in my new workshop.  Let me show you a picture.

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This sure doesn’t look like much does it?  My husband and I have done a lot of work though.  There is more in there that you can not see.  Just this past Sunday my husband was running the electric wires from the electric pole to the workshop.  I just helped pull the wires through the pipe.  Let me say though that I was certainly supervising.

This is such a comfortable outfit.

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Here is the latest outfit that I have made from stretch knit fabric.  The colors are quite a bit darker that what I would usually choose but I am not unhappy with the choices.  This picture was so comical in the making.  My husband and my mother were trying to take the pictures for me but my husband can’t see the viewfinder and my mother is very unfamiliar with my camera.  We all got a great laugh out of it.

Pictures for March blog 001This is the pattern that I am using and so far I have not altered the garments at all.  As you can see by the picture I definitely need to lengthen the top.  I made the full length of the pants and they turned out to be the shorter length on me.  I plan to leave the pants as the are for I am pleased with the length.

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Today I am starting on the cardigan and this is the fabric that I am using.  I am not altering the garment at all.  In the future I will probably be lengthening it.  I will show you the constructing of the cardigan as I go.

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This did turn out to be a very comfortable outfit.

My stretch knit gaucho pants are finished. Come and have a look.

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This is a photo of one of the side seams.  This is a straight stitch for stretch knits on my machine.  It looks like I have finally got the tension just right.  I must say that I am very impressed with how easily my machine sews this fabric.  It is very smooth and I did not encounter any problems.

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These are the different stitches that I have to choose from on my Singer sewing machine.  The stitches in red are the stretch stitches.  I also used a size 12 ballpoint needle that is specifically for stretch knits.

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When it came to the casing for the elastic I stitched the seam allowances down that would be in the casing to allow a bit more ease when running the elastic through.

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Another one of the many things that I have learned on this project is that it is easier to pin the fabric going with the grain/knit rather than trying to pin across it.

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I hope that it is not too difficult to see this stitching.  I did not want to do a boring straight stitch so I used a more decorative stitch for the hem and the casing.  It won’t stand out because the thread is matching but it was another opportunity for me to use another stitch on this project.

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This is my finished project and I am so very pleased with it.  I do plan on making many more garments out of stretch knit fabric.  I just don’t have anymore.  Voguefashionfabric.com here I come!